SQ-50 H Studio monitors /
If you really want to
enjoy your music to the full, without paying a fortune for the
speakers, this is it!
only thousands of music lovers, but also a number of recording studios
use the SQ-50´s because of their clean, natural sound with a wealth of
detail that makes the music really come alive. The whole audio spectrum
is clear, from deep dry bass upwards.
The lower (80 cm) variant of the same loudspeaker, click here.
Saw template for a pair of SQ-50H
You start off with a 2500 x 1200 mm 16 mm (5/8 inch) piece of fibreboard, the low-cost type with a hard surface and more porous inside. This material dampens resonances well. One board is enough for two boxes.
Do the cutting in this order:
1. Set the saw to 230 mm and cut five lengths 230 x 1200 mm. (Side walls + one extra)
2. Set the saw to 180 mm and cut four lengths (200 x 1200 mm).
3. Take one of the 230 x 1200 lenghts from (1) and cut four 230 x 200 mm. (lids and bottoms), and slim the remaining piece down to a width of 180 mm.
4. Set the saw to 100 mm, take the piece from (3) and cut two 180 x 100 mm. (Inner parts)
5. Set the saw to 1160 mm, shorten two of the 180 x 1200 pieces to 180 x 1160 mm. (Fronts)
6. Set the saw to 1100 mm, shorten two of the 180 x 1200 pieces to 180 x 1100 mm. (Back parts)
Now cut out the holes for the speaker drivers on the fronts (180 x 1160 mm) See the drawing.
If you don´t have any saw to cut the driver holes, you can use a drill and file, see this description.)
The tweeter cutout is 46 mm in diameter, placed 50 mm from the upper edge of the front.
The woofer cutout is 149 mm in diameter, center of the hole 200 mm from the upper edge of the front.
Also drill holes for the speaker contacts on the back of the box, preferably right behind the woofer, so you can easily reach it through the woofer hole if something happens like a soldering getting loose.
The parallell 45° lines indicate where the damping material is applied: Front, upper part, back and inner piece. The grey area is the damping material on both sidewalls. A reliatively light dampening material is enough. If you happen to have an IKEA warehouse nearby, the very cheap "Myskgräs" does the job very well! Otherwise: 100 - 120 g / sqm polyester wool.
Keep the thin fabric on, and use tacks (far apart) to just about hold the damping material in place. it should be compressed as little as possible.
Before glueing, make holes for the speaker drivers:
Tweeter: Hole center 50 mm from the top of the front piece, diameter 48 mm.
Woofer: Hole center 200 mm from the top of the front piece, diameter 151 mm.
Glueing: We prefer contact glue / adhesive. Put it on both surfaces, wait for 10 minutes and press together. Easy and quick, and no clamps, nails or screws are needed.
Start by putting one sidewall (1200 x 260 mm) on a flat surface.
Then glue in this order:
1) Lid (180 x 230 mm).
2) Front (180 x 1160 mm),
3) Back (180 x 1100 mm),
4) Bottom part (180 x 230 mm), make sure it gets parallell to the lower edge of the sidewall. That is, horizontal when the box is standing up.
5) Inner part (180 x 100 mm).
There should be a distance of 60 mm (+/- 3 mm is OK) between the bottom part and the inner part. This is the bass port, surface 60 x 180 mm, length 116 mm.
Before glueing the other sidewall, fit the damping material inside the box.
Cover the front, from about 85 mm from its lower end up to the woofer.
The front really needs no damping from there upwards.
Cover the inside of the lid.
Cover the back down to about a cm or so above the upside of the inner part.
Cover the upside of the inner part. Important: No part of the bass ports inside must be damped, it must "breathe freely".
Cover the sidwall you started with, but only down to about 115 mm from the bottom, se gray area in the drawing.
Damping of the remaining sidewall: Leave about 30 mm along the front, back and top edges, and 115 mm from the bottom, so that no damping material gets stuck in the glue when this sidewall is glued to the rest of the box.
When you have finished tacking the damping material onto the sidewall, glue the sidewall onto the rest of the box.
Now the box is ready!
The correct drawing is included in the kits you buy from us.
The box stands on its sidewalls, and they don´t vibrate vertically, so no vibrations are passed down into the floor.
But you should still have some sort of feet (or felt or similar) to protect the floor on which you put the speakers.
If you use contact glue, the speaker drivers, filter and contacts can be fit immediately, you don´t have to wait for the glue to cure.
Speaker cabinets with bass ports only fit drivers with the right